In 1836, English scientist Michael Faraday conducted an experiment on electrostatic charges that resulted in the creation of the container that bears his name. He was not the first to experiment with this concept; his work was based on research performed by Benjamin Franklin nearly one hundred years earlier, in 1755.

A Faraday cage is an enclosure made of conductive material that blocks both static and non-static electrical fields. This protects devices from a weapons EMP strike, a solar flare event, or a lightning strike.

Many websites have complex instructions on how to build a Faraday cage. For more information on building a custom Faraday cage, click here. There are also expensive Faraday bags and boxes that can be purchased. They are “guaranteed” to protect your items from an EMP strike, but collecting on that guarantee could be rather difficult, given the circumstances that would cause the necessity for that protection.

There are many less complicated ways that you can improvise an EMP-proof container of your own for a far less expensive price tag. Although these homemade Faraday cages are perhaps not as stylish and elegant as the retail units, they should be just as effective. The following items can be pressed into device protection duty:

• An aluminum garbage can with a lid
• A metal filing cabinet
• A metal tool box
• A gutted microwave oven
• Tin canisters or ammo cans

Insulate items by lining the container in a non-conductive material, like cardboard. You can also make cardboard sleeves for your devices. It is vital that none of your electronics directly contact the metal of the container. It is important to add that your make-shift Faraday cages should be grounded in order to disperse the energy.

What should you store in your Faraday cage? Anything that you don’t want to live without post-EMP and anything that you can charge in an alternate manner is a good candidate for residence within the container. Some items that you might want to prioritize for a place inside the cage are:

• Radios (shortwave or windup)
• DVD players
• Extra hard drives
• USB drives
• Batteries
• Flashlights
• Laptop and charger
• Solar device chargers
• iPods
• Walkie talkies
• Invertors and charge controllers for solar power system
• Small pieces of medical equipment

Some preppers question the necessity of a Faraday cage. They wonder, why protect items that must be plugged in if the entire electrical grid is down?

First of all, if the grid does come back up at some point, a person with devices that have been protected will be in the vast minority of people to possess a working unit. If the device has been unprotected, even with the return of electrical power at the flick of a switch, the item cannot be repaired and used in the future.

Secondly, if you have planned other sources of power (such as solar or wind power) then the items that you have protected can be used with those power sources. If this is the case, also be certain to protect the proper inverters or solar chargers to be used with the stored devices.

Do you have any devices stored away to be protected against the possibility of an EMP strike or solar flare? If so, how did you make your Faraday cage and what are you storing in it?

Clearly, the first plan of attack is to stockpile sanitary napkins and tampons by the truckload. During a stressful situation, you’ll want to make things easier on yourself and you’ll want to keep things as familiar as possible.

However, in the event of a long-term survival situation, you will require items that (1) can be reused indefinitely and (2) don’t require disposal.

Sanitary Napkin Solutions

Before the 20th Century, most women used cloth pads or “rags” during their menstruation. Disposable pads didn’t become common in America until after WW II. Among rural and low-income women they didn’t catch on until the 1960′s. As with diapers, there have always been people who prefer cloth to disposable. Disposable pads do not biodegrade very quickly. Plastic diapers and sanitary napkins are likely to be two of the most common artifacts that future archaeologists will find when excavating landfills from the 20 and 21 Centuries.
~ The Hillbilly Housewife

Cloth pads can be purchased from a variety of online sites. Many of them are made of organic cotton and they are designed with “wings” much like the disposable pads we buy from the pharmacy. Many of them are decorated with fanciful designs. Two sources for reusable cloth sanitary napkins are Lunapads or Gladrags.

A more budget-friendly option is to make your cloth napkins. Check out Hillbilly Housewife for patterns that you can make, a no-sew version and other suggestions. (This page would be a good one to print out for future reference, as it contains suggestions for making the pads using materials that you have on hand.)

To make washing your cloth pads easier, it is recommended that you rinse them in cold water immediately. (It’s best if you can soak them in water with some white vinegar.) They can later be washed by machine or by hand, using your regular detergent. Avoid the use of fabric softener, as this can make the pads less absorbent. If your pads are purchased, some manufacturers recommend that you do not use chlorine bleach when washing the pads.

Internal Protection

Many women prefer tampons to pads. If the corner drugstore is no longer an option, there are some options that are equivalent to tampons as far as convenience and discretion.

The Diva Cup is a reusable silicone cup that is inserted into the lower vagina. It simply collects the flow. It is removed, emptied and reinserted. It can be worn for up to 12 hours at a time. You can locate sellers of the Diva Cup here.

Another option is the use of natural sea sponges. Many women currently use sea sponges as an alternative to tampons (which are laced with Dioxin, synthetic fibers and pesticide-soaked cotton).

When purchasing sea sponges, don’t buy the ones advertised as sea sponge tampons. Instead, pay a fraction of the cost and get them at your cosmetics counter. They are identical. Select sponges that are dense in texture and very firm when you squeeze them.

Before using your sponge for the first time, sterilize it by soaking it in hydrogen peroxide. Air-dry thoroughly.

To use your sponge, dampen it and then squeeze out as much water as possible. Insert the sponge as you would a tampon. Remove, rinse thoroughly, and reinsert as necessary. At the end of your cycle, again sterilize the sponge using hydrogen peroxide, then air-dry completely.

A sponge will last up to 6 months and can be composted afterwards, as it is easily biodegradable. You can store years’ worth of sponges in the same amount of space as a two month supply of disposable tampons.

It’s best to prepare with a variety of feminine hygiene options. Also, think ahead if you have daughters that are not yet menstruating. It’s only a matter of time until they will also need supplies.

How Does It Work?

We have a finite amount of fuel sources that can be stored for disaster situations. Therefore, using solar powered equipment is an ideal investment for renewable energy for long-term SHTF preparations. As the sun’s rays hit the solar cells on a photovoltaic (PV) panel, the power is transferred to a silicon semiconductor. The power is then changed into direct current (DC) electricity and then passed through connecting wires to finally enter a storage battery.

A solar power system has three components:

1. Solar panel(s)
2. Charge controller
3. Batteries

Before you begin purchasing solar powered equipment, take a moment to consider what you want powered in your home and how many watts of power it will require. Do you want something that will keep batteries and laptops charged in a short-term disaster? Or are you considering something more permanent? Once you have this in mind, build a system to support your needs, and eventually invest in equipment to expand upon this initial investment.

Types of Solar Equipment

Solar Panels If you are considering purchasing some supplies for a solar power system, consider starting out with a basic set of photovoltaic (PV) panels and then add additional items to the existing set up. For $500, you could purchase a solar set up with  a 50 amp hour battery.

There are three types of photovoltaic power systems for you to consider:

1.) Stand alone - Stand-alone power systems install easily for all types of standard or remote power needs. Adding a backup battery will assist in uninterrupted power during utility blackouts or outages.

2.) Grid-tied – Can be set up to provide minimal interruption power (automatic failover) to your home or retreat in the event of a power failure.

3.) Grid-connected but with stand-alone-capabilities – To sell power back to your utility yet still be self sufficient, use a grid-connected but stand-alone-capable system. With this type of system, you can add an inverter to enable you to charge batteries for cordless tools, or even run a laptop or radio.

Online stores such as eBay and Amazon are valuable resources when purchasing these items. To learn more about the equipment required to create a solar paneling system, click here.

Solar generators offers great advantages over the gasoline and diesel ran generators. For starters, they don’t produce dangerous fumes, run quietly, are energy efficient and do not require fuel to run them. And if that was not enough, they can last 25 years or longer. Although these can be costly, there is no additional costs to run the generator. And for that matter, who says that a solar generator can only be used during disasters? Run your solar generator regularly in order to keep your electricity bills down.

Mobile solar power systems would be ideal for bug out bags or for someone who believes that mobility is a priority when the SHTF. For a smaller investment, foldable solar panels would be a good consideration and have the capability of charging small devices. Ensure that you know how many watts the panel will provide you. Most most flexible solar panels that are 35 watt or greater will provide you 6-volt of power, so you will have to buy 2 and wire these in a series to make 12-volts. There are even large solar panels connected to trailers for remote living. Manufacturers are even creating these mobile systems with a Lithium-Ion battery. Lithium technology is favored by manufacturers for its light weight and robust power capabilities. This type of solar set up can be purchased online at www.MobileSolarPower.net. Bear in mind that these systems can easily be stolen, hence the word portable solar power systems. So it should be placed in a secure, well guarded area.

Solar battery chargers are ideal for SHTF planning. Some battery chargers use trickle charging, and can be somewhat time consuming. To expedite the process, many preppers buy two or three chargers. However, there are solar chargers that can be connected to a photovoltaic panel and can make a huge difference in recharging batteries and for that matter, providing small scale lighting. Ensure that your solar battery charger can charge a variety of battery sizes and has smart capability. A smart charger will not overcharge your batteries. Some solar battery chargers are waterproof and would be ideal if you are bugging out by boat, or by foot. The AccuManger 20 battery charger is a smart charger and is decently priced. Keep in mind that depending on the investment you make, some chargers require additional equipment such as an inverter to convert the energy or a solar panel with a deep cycle (DC) battery.

Parts of this article were adapted from James W. Rawles’ How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It

Consider, for a moment, how drastically your life would change without the continuous flow of energy the grid delivers. What would our lives be like without access to communication channels telling us what is going on? How vulnerable would we feel not getting our daily dose of local, and world news? For that matter, how would we get in touch with loved ones to let them know how we are?

According to James Rawles, author of How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It, most radio and TV stations have enough fuel to run their backup generators for only a few days. Ditto for the telephone company central offices (COs).  If that is the case, then what will happen when those generators run out of power? As he points out, “there will be an acute information vacuum.”

Communication in a grid down scenario is going to be vital in any serious emergency. Therefore, the best way to to prepare for this situation is to equip yourself with the knowledge and tools for communication. Rawles states, “Once you’ve mastered short-range communications and public service band monitoring, the next step is to join your local Amateur Radio Relay League (ARRL) affiliate club and study to get your amateur license.” Because many of us are not familiar with the vast array of emergency comm devices, the following list is recommended in How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It, (p.193-198) as well as a brief description of how they operate:

 Shortwave Receiver

Shortwave radio is a type of long-range radio transmission that bounces signals off a layer of the atmosphere called the ionosphere to be received in another part of the world.  The ionosphere, located about 100 miles (160 km) over the earth’s surface, has the unique ability of being able to reflect certain radio frequencies. Unlike AM and FM radio, shortwave radio frequencies can bounce off of the ionosphere and be heard many thousands of miles away. This allows users to be able to hear shortwave radio broadcasters from other countries throughout the world. The ionosphere typically bounces the widest variety of shortwave radio frequencies at night, especially within a few hours of sunset and sunrise.

Rawles suggests that your receiver be a compact, portable general coverage AM/FM/weather band/CB/shortwave receiver. The secret to making a receiver last are to buy a couple of spare hand-reel antennas, show care in putting stress on the headphone jack and power-cable connections, and always carry the radio and accessories in a sturdy, well-padded, preferably waterproof case.

The top brands are Grundig, Sangean, Eton, Kaito, Sony

Transceivers

A transceiver or transmitter/receiver is a device that combines transmission and reception capability on shared circuitry. In regions where digital coverage is spotty, a transceiver may be equipped for analog to ensure that there will be no loss of signal. Transceivers can handle analog or digital signals, and in some cases, both. Communication and reception are dependent on the range of frequencies. For instance, if you live on a piece of land where there are a lot of hills or trees, your range would be affected. Satellites can also play a part in how well the transceiver works and transmit across greater distances. Keep in mind, the more high powered a transceiver is, the more expensive it is, and also the larger it tends to be.

Ham radio transceivers, for example can broadcast and receive transmissions for over 50 miles, and some can let you talk with people from the other side of the planet. One prepper advised me that for a small broadcasting radius (10 miles or fewer), tune all your radios to the 440 MHz band or anywhere from 144 to 148 MHz (each radio must be on the exact same frequency). Conversations on a ham radio are not secure or private, so don’t broadcast any personal information over the airwaves, just in case.

There are two different types of tranceivers:

• Full duplex - In a full duplex transceiver, the device can transmit and receive at the same time. Cell phones are an excellent example of a full duplex transceiver, as both parties can talk at once.
• Half duplex – A half duplex transceiver silences one party while the other transmits. Many radio systems operate on a half duplex method, which is why people signal when they are going “out,” alerting the other user to the fact that the frequency is open for transmission.

Experts say that the tranceivers that are portable and can attach to gear or uniforms are good, they do, however have a disadvantage of being weak, with a limited range which can become problematic at times. On Survival Blog, Rawles indicates that he prefers Multi Use Radio Service (MURS) band, since most MURS radios can be programmed to operate in the 2 Meter band, and because they have much better range than FRS (Family Radio Service) radios. But like FRS, they are unregulated in most private use. (No license required!) It is also important to note that the CB channels, FRS channels, and 2 Meter band frequencies will likely be very crowded WTSHTF, particularly in the suburbs, but the less well-known and less populated MURS frequencies will probably be largely available at any given time.

The top brands include MURS, Yaesu VX-3R VHF/UHF, Handheld VHF 2 Meter Amateur Radio Tranceiver 5watt, TYT TH-F5 

CB Radio

CB radio or Citizens’ band (CB) radio is a communication device that allows people to talk to each other using a radio frequency. The CB radio user has 40 channels to choose from and uses an 11 meter band or 27 MHz. You want to make sure that your CB radio is SSB capable.

Top brands include an Cobra 148GTL, Midland 1001Z, Cobra 75 WX ST

Field Telephones

Field telephones are mobile telephones designed for military use, and have the capability to withstand wartime conditions. They can draw power from their own battery, from a telephone exchange (via a central battery known as CB), or from an external power source. There are some that are sound-powered telephones, and do not require a battery.

Rawles believes that having reliable field telephones is essential to coordinate retreat security in a post-TEOTWAWKI world. For semi-permanent installation, it is best to buy cable that is rated for underground burial (UB), to conceal and protect all of your lines. Burying your lines will also prevent both intentional and unintentional lines cuts and breaks. He goes on to further suggest buying extra field phones, so that you can run commo wire to your neighbors and coordinate with them as well. To purchase field telephones, look on eBay, at Army surplus stores, or emergency supply stores.

Top brands are TA-1042 DNVT, TA 838, TA-312

Table Radio

Essentially table radios are contained radio receivers and can mostly be found on eBay. Many can run on battery power, thus making them useful as emergency radios. Because some table radios still use the vacuum-tube technology, they are virtually EMP proof. Rawles suggests finding a radio with shortwave bands, such as a Zenith TransOceanic H500 and to purchase a redundant commo gear (headsets, antennas, etc).

Top suggested brands include: Zenith TransOceanic H500, Drake R8B

Some other features to consider when purchasing emergency communications equipment is:

• You have more control when you have knobs on the radios rather than buttons.
•  Antenna masts that can be telescoped when not in use.
• Vertical yagis antennas stick out, but horizontal ones blend in. (They just look like television antennas, to the casual observer.) So consider getting one that pivots for operation in both polarizations. Not only will it give you better OPSEC, but it will give you better versatility.
• If a license is required to operate
• The power source it uses to operate.

During emergencies, our total dependence on communications becomes all to clear. And, if the emergency is severe enough, the communication could be limited, if not non-existent for a given amount of time. Each of us have read enough  survival books to know that the “comm down” scenario is a very real threat, and happens more often than not. So, when we are on our own, will you have your own communication devices set up to communicate with others or will you take a gamble and stay in the dark?

There is a reason why our ancestors relied so heavily upon essential kitchen items for their day-to-day survival, and it wasn’t because they wanted to make the best baked goods in the county. The “make due or do without” philosophy transferred into their food sources as well. The answer as to why our ancestors stocked these items is versatility.

The following are a list of essential items that are very deserving of a space on your emergency food shelves:

1. Baking Soda - This is my favorite item to stock up on because it has so many darn uses!

• Because the active ingredient (sodium bicarbonate) is an alkaline, it is a natural antacid.
• Dental care
• Electrolyte powder
• Emergency antiseptic
• Natural cleaner
• Cleans off rust
• Can be used in treating scalding, to prevent blistering and scarring. Cover the scalded area with a liberal layer of sodium bicarbonate and water paste and seek medical assistance.
• Can be applied to skin irritations that occur from poison oak, poison ivy and sumac.

Please note: Due to the salt content, anyone on a sodium-restricted diet or those with high blood pressure, cardiovascular disease or kidney disease should not take sodium bicarbonate in large quantities as it can elevate blood pressure, aggravate heart disease and lead to edema, or swelling of the legs and feet due to fluid retention.

2. Baking Powder - Baking soda is actually the primary component in baking powder, so it’s no surprise that pretty much anything you can do with baking soda, you can do with baking powder. Some additional uses include, but are not limited to:

• Eliminates odors
• Natural cleaning agent
• Draws out insect stings and jelly fish venom.
• Keeps ants away from the house.

3. Salt - Salt is another of my favorite kitchen essentials to stock up on. It is a multipurpose, low cost prep that will be highly desirable if a long term disaster were to come around. Salt will be a big bartering item! Stock up on different types of salt: sea salt, table salt, pickling salt, curing salt – they will all have their uses in a long term disaster. Sea salt is not only healthy for your body, but it also provides antiseptic and bactericidal qualities. Read more here.

• Dental care
• Food preservation
• Medicinal
• Tanning hides
• Supplemental feeding for livestock (Salt licks)

4. Yeast

Where would we be without the discovery of yeast? Yeasts are naturally present and live symbiotically on food sources such as grains, vegetables and fruits. Click here to learn 3 ways to grow your own baking yeast.

Baking Yeast

• Making alcohol
• Nutritional supplement
• Assists diabetics in controlling their blood sugar level.
• Helps control high cholesterol levels.
• Is a natural flea control for pets.

5. Vinegar

Vinegar has been around for thousands of years and is so diverse that it would be worthwhile to have a good supply stocked up. The good news is the shelf life is long-term! To learn how to make your own apple cider vinegar, click here.

• Soothes sunburns
• Eliminated bad breath
• Natural facial  toner
• Can be used as a fabric softener
• Is a natural hair cleaner/conditioner
• Cleaning product for the home
• Possess medicinal properties

 6. Corn Starch

Did you know that corn starch offers some health benefits? Crazy, I know. Corn starch has 488 calories per cup and 117 grams of carbohydrates. I realize this is not an ideal main entree, but if added to dishes it could be a great way of providing additional calories and carbohydrates for added energy. There are also some additional uses to consider with this product:

• Great for use as a dry shampoo
• Burn treatment
• Treatment for insect bites
• Deodorant
• Gets grease out of fabric
• Cleans windows
• Thickener for soups, sauces and gravies

7. Powdered Milk

Have you ever wondered how powdered milk is made? Basically, it is made by evaporating milk to dryness. One of the reasons that powdered milk is so popular amongst the preppers and survivalists is it can be stored for long term use. Further, due to it’s low moisture level, it does not need to be refrigerated, thus making it a perfect emergency pantry item!

• Milk
• Cheese
• Sour cream
• Whipped topping
• Substitute for milk
• Facial wash

When most of us hear the phrase “protein powder” we think of a muscle-bound body builder swigging back a thick shake while checking out his biceps in the mirror.

Don’t disregard it, though. Protein powder could be an excellent source of calories and protein in a SHTF world.

• Protein powder requires no refrigeration even after opening.
• Protein powder requires no further preparation than putting it in a jar with liquid and shaking it.
• Protein powder can take the place of meals if necessary.
• Protein powder comes in many tasty flavors.
• Protein powder is easily portable in Ziploc bags for a bug-out scenario.

Before you go to the bodybuilding store or supplement aisle to purchase your stash of protein powder, there are a few things to learn about the different types so that you can make the best decision for your family’s needs.

Which source of protein?

The most common protein source for powders is “whey protein”. Whey protein is derived from milk. Whey protein concentrate contains some lactose and fats, whereas whey protein isolate is nearly pure protein. People with mild lactose intolerance can generally tolerate the protein isolate.

Another source of protein derived from milk is “casein protein.” Casein moves slowly through the digestive tract and can help you feel full longer. The protein is easily digested by most but this will definitely cause problems for those who deal with any degree of lactose intolerance.

Next we have “egg white protein”. This is an excellent source of pure protein but these powders are far more expensive. The body processes egg white protein with nearly 100% efficiency. Remember that eggs are a very common allergen – be careful when sharing this product with others.

Finally, there is an array of “vegetarian proteins”. Hemp, pea, soy and rice proteins are the most common. These are generally higher in fiber (the others have almost no fiber) but the protein is not as bioavailable (easily processed and used by the body) as the protein in the other options. The vegetarian powders are generally very expensive, have a lower protein count per scoop and, in my opinion, taste horrible.

Which type of powder?

When you get to the supplement aisle, you will want to do some label-reading. Body-builders generally have the goal of weight gain or fat loss. Weight gain powders contain high levels of carbohydrates and calories. Pure protein powders are used to aid in the loss of fat while maintaining muscle mass, and will have a low carbohydrate and fat count.

First of all, look for a powder with ingredients that you can actually pronounce. Steer away from artificial sugars like aspartame, Sucralose, and saccharine. Those are just another name for poison – we are looking for REAL nutrients!

You also want to avoid processed sugars such as sucrose, high fructose corn syrup, brown rice syrup (not as healthy as it sounds) and all those other “ose-es”. Cane sugar, honey, agave and stevia are good natural sweeteners, some of which add some healthy carbohydrates.

When you read the label you are looking for at least 24 grams of protein per serving. The grams of fat depend on your personal goals. Because I use these powders all the time as a fitness supplement, I look for low fat versions. However if you are only storing these powders as a SHTF food, the high fat version may be what you are looking for. If the carbohydrates are very low – less than 3 grams per serving – carefully read over the ingredients to make sure the product does not contain artificial sweeteners. If the carbs are high, you are checking for the “ose-es” – processed sugars.

How do you use protein powder?

The simplest way to use protein powder is in a shake. You can mix it with any fluid. If you have power, put this in a blender with some ice or some frozen fruit. If the situation is grid-down, simply put one cup of water or milk in a jar with a lid, add a scoop of powder and shake the daylights out of it until it’s well mixed and the powder is dissolved. In a world without refrigeration, you can use a bit of non-fat dry milk powder in the mixture as well. A protein drink is also a good way to ingest any liquid vitamin supplements that you might be using.

There are lots of recipes on the net that include protein powder. If you have a way to cook you can bake cookies or protein bars, and you can substitute a few scoops of powder for flour in your own baking recipes.

Try this protein powder recipe for a healthy snack – it requires no cooking and the kids will love it!

Chocolate PB Balls

Ingredients:

• 1 cup chocolate protein powder
• 1 cup of peanut butter
• 1/2 cup honey
• 1/2 cup oats

Directions:

In mixing bowl, combine all ingredients thoroughly. Roll 1 tablespoon of dough each into a walnut size balls and place on waxed paper.

You can roll the balls in extra protein powder, cocoa powder, or powdered sugar to make them less sticky on the outside
This makes 36 PB balls (4 per serving)

Calories: 248; Carbs: 19.2; Fat: 14.8; Protein: 7.2

These are my favorite protein powders:

• North Coast Naturals 100% Iso-Protein
• Perfect Nutrition Perfect Whey

Click here to read Capt. Mikes plan, his philosophy, the boat’s solar power, and the boat’s wind turbines.

In recent articles, we discussed the use of both solar  and wind power; living off the grid when the SHTF.

For years I have been a 12 volt man aboard our boat. Twelve volt DC systems were always simple, safe and served their purposes. But after a cruise aboard our boat some months back where we had to continually power up the generator to supply electricity to the 115 volt ac freezer to maintain temperatures, I began to consider alternatives. We put over 90 hours on the generator in just 5 days; time for another oil change! And when the SHTF, running a diesel generator for prolonged periods is not going to be a good idea; diesel fuel will likely be in short supply.

So I began to consider installing an inverter to power the freezer. But what is an inverter anyway?

An inverter is an electrical device that turns 12 volt battery direct current (dc) power to 120 volt alternating current (ac). But there were so many selections from which to choose, where do I start? When it comes to choosing a power inverter for your boat/home the selections can be confusing. With so many choices on the market it is important to understand what the differences are so that you can make the best choice for your own application.

Your first consideration will be wattage. Inverters are sized by the wattage they can handle. Consider what items you will be running and how many amps each item requires. You will need to also consider how many of them you will be running at once to determine which size inverter will be the best for your needs. You do not want to overload your inverter by plugging in too many high wattage items at once. You will probably notice that the cost of inverters rise with the amount of wattage. You can get the wattage by looking at the manufactures label on the appliance or if only the amps are there use the formula (amps x 115 volts= wattage) to convert to watts.

The next consideration will be whether you should get a true sine wave inverter or a modified sine inverter. A true sine inverter is one that will give you a nice current just like you get from the power company. A pure sin converter will operate virtually everything you may have where a modified inverter may not power certain devices.

A modified sine inverter is slightly less pure.. The modified sine inverter was developed as a more cost effective alternative to the true sine inverter. You will find that although the pure sine inverter will provide the best electrical current, it also will be the most expensive. An 1800 watt modified sine inverter will cost you about $350.00.

Although the modified sine inverter is cheaper it has its own drawbacks. For most small appliances, such as a refrigerators or hair dryers, a modified sine inverter will be sufficient. However, with some items like plasma televisions you may notice a lack of precision. In this case a true sine inverter may be a better solution so that you can have a better quality output. It is also important to remember that a modified sine inverter cannot be upgraded to a true sine inverter. You will want to make sure you are buying the correct inverter for your needs at the start. As a side note, we found out that a modified sin inverter will not power an induction cook top.

It is a good idea to inquire about overload shut off indicators or switches on your inverter just in case you over load the inverter; most inverters will have them as standard equipment. You will also want to check to find out if the inverter has thermal and short circuit shut down to prevent those types of emergencies also. In addition, some inverters have built-in shut down capabilities if the battery storage levels get to a certain low point.

I chose to install a Xantrex 1800 watt modified sine inverter capable of 1000 watts of continuous load. This inverter has a built-in transfer switch that transfers between shore and inverter power.

The final consideration is the battery bank you will be drawing from. Your inverter will be pulling from this battery bank and you must be able to calculate how long the inverter can operate before a recharge must take place. Look at your battery to find the amp-hours for them. Amp-hours mean amps time hours. A battery bank of 2 8D batteries will have about 580 amp hours.

So I know that my freezer pulls 7.5 amps and runs for 20 minutes each hour which equals about 8 hours per 24 hours. So the total amp-hours the freezer will use per 24 hours are about 60; all the other usage gives us a draw of about 112 amp hours. So technically we could run the inverter for about 5 days without a recharge, but can we?

It isn’t good to run a battery all the way down to zero. Battery life is directly related to how deep the battery is cycled each time. If a boat battery is discharged to 80% every day, it will last about twice as long as if it is cycled to 50% of full discharge every day. If cycled only 10% of discharge, it will last about 5 times as long as one cycled to 50%. This does NOT mean you cannot go to 80% occasionally. It’s just that you must have some idea of the loads, you should figure on an average discharge of around 50% for the best storage vs cost factor. Also, there is an upper limit – a battery that is continually cycled 5% or less will usually not last as long as one cycled down 10%. This happens because at very shallow cycles, the lead dioxide tends to build up on the positive plates. I prefer to cycle my batteries down only 30% from full before recharging.

Monitoring your batteries can be estimated but I prefer to use a Trimetric 2025 monitoring device. This electronic device allows me to monitor the battery banks amp-hours use precisely. I gave you the location to buy this in the solar panel article.

With some careful planning an inverter can make your SHTF a more pleasant experience. After you choose the inverter that is right for you, make sure to have it properly installed. If you are not sure about working with electricity, it will be best to have a professional do the job for you.

We took another 4-day cruise over the last New Year holiday with our new inverter and I am proud to say we only used the generator 6 hours in 4 days. Life is good.

In another article I wrote about the necessity for preparing to live off the grid when the SHTF. I wrote about using solar power. Finding ways to produce energy without the aid of my yacht’s generator was a necessity. It does not take very long to go through 100 gallons of diesel fuel when using a generator. And I suspect that when the SHTF, diesel fuel will be in short supply.
First it was a solar panel, and now, the latest is a wind turbine. I have installed a wind turbine aboard my boat, but you can use these same principles to install one on land.

Wind has been used for producing energy for centuries; first in Persia (present-day Iran) as early as 200 B.C. However, the first known functional windmills were developed by the Dutch in 1300, by means of cloth sails stretched across wooden frames. In some designs these sails could be trimmed to take advantage of unpredictable wind speed conditions. The large windmills of the Dutch design remained in use all across Europe until the introduction of the steam engine in the 1800s.

Wind is in reality a form of solar energy. Winds are caused by the irregular heating of the atmosphere by the sun, the irregularities of the earth’s surface, and revolving of the earth. Wind flow patterns are created by the earth’s terrain, bodies of water, man-made structures and vegetation. We humans can use this wind flow, for many purposes: sailing a boat, flying a kite, flying an airplane and even generating electricity.

The term wind power describes the method by which the wind is used to produce mechanical power. This mechanical power can then be used for specific mechanical tasks such as grinding grain or pumping water. Or as used on a boat, an alternator in a wind turbine can convert this mechanical power into electrical energy.

So how do wind turbines make electricity? Simply stated, a wind turbine works the reverse of a fan. As an alternative to using electricity to make wind, like a fan, wind turbines use wind to make electricity. The wind spins the blades, which turn a shaft. The shaft connects to an alternator and produces electricity. In our boat’s turbine, the alternator produces 220 volt 3-phase AC current. The controller, converter, then converts the AC power to 12 volt DC power to charge the battery bank.

Wind Availability

When evaluating whether a wind turbine is economically realistic for your use depends on the quality of your wind resources. Usually, average wind speeds of at least 4 mph are required for a small wind turbine to generate enough electricity to be cost-effective. Being less than ½ mile from the Atlantic coast, we have afternoon sea breezes in the summer which routinely produce 10-15 mph winds. In winter months, we frequently have cold fronts coming through that give us sustained winds of 15-20 mph. If your location is inland, your winds will likely be different.

The most significant component of evaluating your wind resource is an anemometer. Anemometers are wind measuring devices, typically designed with rotating cups mounted on a vertical shaft. The anemometer will allow you to “read” the wind speeds. We have one of these permanently mounted aboard our yacht.

If there is another wind turbine owner in your area, you may be able to obtain useful information from its owners about the electrical output of the system and wind speed data. Such information could be tremendously valuable as an option to installing an anemometer.

Turbine Mounting

Determining the location to mount your wind turbine takes a bit of planning. It must be high enough to capture the wind, preferably away from arches, sails, masts or trees that will block or alter wind flow. There is also the issue of rotating blades. We want to make sure that they do not strike anything while turning, especially someone’s head while moving about.

I chose to use the factory designed pole kit that was built for our turbine. It provides a 3-point connection which also allows us to lay it down for servicing. It is powder coated anodized aluminum, with stainless steel, brackets, designed to withstand the harsh marine environment.

My wind turbine is actually a hybrid system I designed using both wind power and solar power; a schematic is provided in the solar panel article showing the configuration.

Being Neighborly

Many people feel strongly about the need to preserve the views and peace and quiet of their marinas. Expect some questions from your dock mates. Understand your neighbors’ natural fear of the unknown and be prepared to respond to their concerns.

Some of the concerns raised about wind turbines are not true. Wind turbines are not, as many people think, hazardous to birds. A shiny reflective window is more dangerous to birds than a small wind turbine. Wind turbines also have no potential to interfere with radio and television reception.

Wind Turbine Noise

Your neighbors’ concerns involving wind turbine noise are important. Regardless of the size of the wind turbine, the possibility for turbine noise to bother other people always exists. Even if a wind turbine does not emit enough sound to break any noise regulations, the noise it produces may still be offensive to other people.

Older turbines were indeed noisy, but modern day engineering has developed turbine blades that are virtually silent. Our turbine is about 3 feet in diameter and at 4 mph winds; the unit produces a light flutter. At 10 mph the unit produces no sound at all.

Wind Turbine Advantages

•  Wind is free
• Produces no waste or greenhouse gases.

Wind Turbine Disadvantages

• The wind is not always predictable – some days we have no wind at all.
• Some units can be noisy. The small modern wind generators used on boats hardly produce any sound at all.

How Much Power Do They Produce

Turbines can be purchased that produce different power outputs. The turbine that I chose is a Sunforce 450 watt turbine. It has a cut-in speed of 4 mph and has a survival wind speed capacity of 157 mph.

The amps (power) produced is:

• 6 mph winds – 8.3 amps
• 10 mp winds – 25 amps
• 14 mph winds – 58.3 amps

The unit has a built in brake that will engage automatically when the batteries are at full charge, or it can be manually set if so desired.

Personally, my overall goal in being prepared is to be ready for a long-term grid down disaster. That being the case, my family is taking steps to acquire supplies and tools that involve a more all-emcompassing emergency supply in order to be self-reliant.

5 Most Expensive Preps

There are times in our quest for preparedness where each of us will see the need to invest in certain preparedness items that are expensive, but necessary for our survival. Before any monetary investment is made, my husband and I discuss the importance of the item, why we need the investment, if it is versatile, and how it can benefit us in an emergency. Our stored food supply is the largest investment we have made thus far, however, I believe that you are more interested in the other items we have invested in. So without further adieu, here are the 5 most expensive items we have purchased:

1. Undisclosed – Firearms and ammunition
2. $750 – Custom-made copper still made by www.LNLProtekt.com
3. $429 + extra parts – Country Living Grain Mill at www.Directive21.com
4. $285 – Royal Berkey Water Filtration System at www.Directive21.com
5. $200 – 21 quart American Pressure Cooker can be purchased here.

5 Cheapest Preps 

To be clear, I need you to understand that I am not made of money. Like most of you, my family had to sacrifice a great deal to get the items we have stored away. We cannot always afford the “best of the best” so to speak and are always on the lookout for great deals. We typically go to stores such as the $1 store or to Big Lots to see if we can find some good deals or wait until the end of the season to sweep up on clearance deals. That being said, here are 5 of the cheapest preps we have found so far:

1. $1-$5 – Homesteading and preparedness resources from discounted book stores.
2. $5 – 2 cases of canning jars from Craigslist.
3. $1 Emergency sewing kit for the bug out bags from a craft store.
4. $.50 Macaroni and cheese  on clearance at a grocery store.
5. Free fabric that someone was giving away.

5 Homemade Preps

One of the greatest gifts we can give ourselves is the knowledge of how to survive on our own. The end result is the satisfaction of knowing that I have learned skills to keep my family’s needs met.

1. Survival bars
2. Water proof matches – Re-purpose spent candles by melting  them down and dipping the matches into them.
3. Fire starters
4. Refrigeration
5. Homemade stove

So, what happens if and when the grid goes down for an extended period of time? Aside from the aggravation of not being able to determine what is happening through traditional media channels, for the Average Joe, his problems have only just begun. Our dependency to the grid doesn’t just stop at lack of electricity in our homes to power our appliances or an inability to charge our cell phones; it is much broader and affects every aspect of our lives.

We are regularly inundated with news reports covering outages that last several days or weeks resulting from inclement weather like snow storms or hurricanes, or heat waves in southern states that threaten to overload the system. During those times, when entire metropolitan areas or regions experience black outs, we get a glimpse into what a truly widespread emergency might look like. It is often the case that the first thing residents of affected areas do is rush to grocery and hardware stores hoping to acquire critical supplies like food, water, batteries, flashlights and generators. And while these supplies acquired at the onset of crisis may provide short term sustenance, any long-term grid-down situation that lasts for many weeks or months will prove dangerous, and perhaps fatal, to the unprepared.

Consider, for a moment, how drastically your life would change without the continuous flow of energy the grid delivers. While manageable during a short-term disaster, losing access to the following critical elements of our just-in-time society would wreak havoc on the system.

• Challenges or shut downs of business commerce
• Breakdown of our basic infrastructure: communications, mass transportation, supply chains
• Inability to access money via atm machines
• Payroll service interruptions
• Interruptions in public facilities – schools, workplaces may close, and public gatherings.
• Inability to have access to clean drinking water

Neil Swidey, in his article What If The Lights Go Out?,  indicates that the grid may be ill-equipped to meet all the enormous challenges it faces in this day and age.

The last widespread outage in the Northeast, the great blackout of August 2003, showed how intimately interconnected and alarmingly fragile our power grid is. How else to explain the way a problem starting in northeastern Ohio quickly cascaded into a blackout affecting 50 million people  across the northeastern United States and parts of Canada? How quickly? Between the moment a power surge came rushing out of Ohio and the moment Manhattan began to go dark, exactly 10 seconds had passed.

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If our society is more reliant on power than at any time in history – without it, we’ve got no commerce, no communications, no clean water – and if power becomes less reliable in the future, the big question is: Will we be able to hack it?

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THE TROUBLE with the future of power isn’t that there is one big problem that could croak us. It’s that there are a host of them, any one of which could croak us.

Neil Swidey has grouped these potential grid-down antagonizers into three categories:

1. Extreme Natural Disasters

This includes earthquakes, hurricanes, snow storms, thunderstorms as well as massive solar storms that have the potential to seriously damage the electrical grid. You don’t think it could happen? In the article provided above, the author states, “It took just 90 seconds for a 1989 solar storm to cause the collapse of the Hydro-Quebec power grid, leaving 6 million Canadians without power for up to nine hours. A 2008 NASA-funded report noted the risk of significant damage to our interconnected grid in light of the forecast for increased solar activity. The 11-year solar cycle is expected to peak in 2013, and just two weeks ago we saw one of the biggest solar-radiation storms in years.

2. Acts of Terrorists

This category includes, but is not limited to a physical attack on the bulk power system, either at its source of generation or somewhere along its transmission route, cyber attack on the computers controlling our interconnected grid, electro-magnetic pulse, or EMP, weapon. Have you read One Second After by William R. Forstchen? EMP’s will create long-lasting damage that would incapacitate electronic systems across the country and forever change our way of life. Cyber-threats are another concern and someone with serious hacking skills could easily take out computers, networks or information stored therein to cause lasting damage to our way of life.

3. The Ailing Grid

Our ailing power grid is almost as sick as our failing economy. With one malicious event, be it man made or by natural means, it is down. Swidey compares the grid infrastructure  to being as old and stooped as a pensioner. As it is upgraded and its capacity is expanded, our rapacious need for more electrical power races to max it out once again.

A wide-spread emergency, such as a massive power surge, solar flare or rogue electromagnetic pulse (EMP) detonation have the capacity to render our entire power infrastructure useless. Transformers and other key elements on which the grid depends could be permanently damaged as a result of massive electric surges.

In an event such as this our immediate problem will be finding a way to order, manufacture and take delivery of the components needed to replace the faulty ones. Most of the parts made for our electrical grid are made in China – and many are decades old. According to Congressman Roscoe Bartlett, who recently warned people to get their families out of major cities because of concerns about the stability of the grid, it would take months to get the parts shipped to this country and replaced.

During the outage, millions would be adversely affected, with some like Frank Gaffney, president of the Center for Security Policy, suggesting that within a year 9 out of 10 Americans would be dead from starvation, disease and violence.

Ladies and gentleman, if there’s one thing that can cause the veritable “S” to hit the fan, this is it.

So how do we remedy and/or prepare for a grid down scenario? Think retro – like pioneer retro- and by that we have to go way back to when we were not so dependent on the luxury of on-demand energy in its various forms. When preparing for a grid-down scenario, we must comprise different contingency plans for short-term and longer-term issues. That being the case, we have to admit to ourselves that it could last longer than we expect and much more than just a minor inconvenience. Therefore, the best way to prepare is to start with your basic needs. That is the need for light, heat, water, and food. Some preparedness items to stock up on are:

• Alternative fuel sources such as solar and diesel, wood for burning.
• Food preservation supplies – dehydrators, canners, smokers, fermenting/pickling supplies. To learn more, click here.
• Bulk food – Canned, freeze-dried, dehydrated or dry goods.
• Water filtration supplies, rain harvesting supplies and large quantities of stored water.
• Light sources: Lanterns, flashlights, candles and matches and alternative light sources
• Batteries and chargers
• Emergency stove – solar oven, rocket stove, camping stoves, etc.
• Wood burning fire place – Central air heating systems, even if they use natural gas or propane, depend on electricity for the blower that will circulate the heated air. When the grid is down, this system will not work. Having a wood burning fire place is an alternative to central heating systems.
• Cash money and/or silver or gold currency.

The vulnerability of our grid is nothing new to preppers. Some have seen this problem coming for a long time and changed their entire ways of life by going off-grid. They have found alternative sources such as solar, wind and diesel to power their homes and machinery. A majority of us, who have not gone off-grid, are making a concerted effort to avoid dependence on this ailing infrastructure and preparing for life without it. That being said, all we can do is stay the course, prepare accordingly and continue on.